KADOR: A legacy shaped in Cadore
- By Valeria Martinez
When lifelong designer Enzo Sopracolle took over Kador, he inherited more than a company. He stepped into a legacy shaped over decades in Cadore, Italy’s eyewear valley. In this interview with 20/20 Europe, he reflects on the brand’s evolution, the creative vision he now shares with his son Mattia and the debut of Over the Hill, the new collection launching at OPTI Munich.
Q: Kador was born in Calalzo di Cadore in the 1960s, and its roots run deep in Italian eyewear history. When you took over from Antonio Frescura, what did you want to hold onto, and what did you feel needed to change?
A: Kador has an extraordinary history, shaped by art, innovation, colour, and quality. I have always been deeply drawn to this company for its value and authenticity. When my son Mattia and I took it over, we dreamed of a father-and-son project that would allow us to freely express the best of ourselves: for me, creatively; for him, through innovation and technology. I began by working on the product portfolio, which at the time was about 90% focused on private label. Inspired by trends of the past but with a contemporary vision, I worked to redefine the brand’s identity and relaunch the Kador collections, gradually shifting the company’s core revenue toward the brand itself. Mattia, on the other hand, focused on the company’s growth from a technological and organisational standpoint: he led investments in innovation, introduced new technologies, closely oversaw production processes, and promoted the expansion and renewal of our operational facilities. The team has also grown significantly — from 15 people at the time to over 40 today — and continues to expand. For us, Kador is truly a family project: every day we work to build a recognisable brand that preserves the company’s history and artisanal quality, transforming them into a contemporary identity that reflects the values, passion, and spirit of a family.
Q: You’ve spent most of your life designing for some of the biggest names in the industry. What convinced you to take on a small, independent workshop like Kador?
A: The passion for eyewear has always been one of the cornerstones of my life. From my very first steps in the world of design and production, I have devoted my career and experience to creating frames capable of combining aesthetics, functionality, and identity. Over the years, I’ve had the privilege of collaborating with some of the most renowned international brands, contributing to the development of highly successful collections. What has always guided me is my love for this craft — for its artistry and for the ability to transform a material into an object that tells a story. My connection to my homeland is deep and unbreakable. I was born and raised in Cadore, a region that has represented the beating heart of Italian eyewear for decades. Here, I learned the values of hard work, dedication, and quality. For me, being able to build an entrepreneurial project right in this place is a source of great pride: it means giving back value to the economic and social fabric that shaped me, and helping keep its tradition alive while projecting it toward the future. To all this, there is an added human element that holds profound meaning for me: the opportunity to share this journey with my son Mattia. Working together — combining my experience and creative vision with his energy, curiosity, and inclination toward innovation — represents a mutual enrichment and a constant source of inspiration. It is a project born from the heart, carrying within it the values of family, collaboration, and shared growth. From this spirit, a collection was born that I consider particularly symbolic: a line dedicated to Cadore, to my experience, and to my roots. It is a collection that expresses the deeper motivations that led us to build our own reality — a tribute to the land, to artisanal excellence, and to the distinctly Italian ability to look ahead with passion and vision.
Q: “Made in Italy” is a phrase we hear often, but it means something very specific in Cadore. How do you keep that meaning real in your production today?
A: For Kador, Made in Italy takes on a special meaning when it is rooted in Cadore, the place where the world’s first eyewear district was born. Here, know-how is not just a productive element but a cultural heritage passed down through generations. Producing frames in Italian acetate since 1962 means preserving and renewing, day after day, an identity built on artisanal precision, technical expertise, and respect for materials. Cadore is not merely a geographic location: it is a unique production ecosystem where designers, artisans, and suppliers collaborate within a model that values a short supply chain and certified quality. Relying exclusively on Italian suppliers strengthens this bond, ensuring quality and aesthetic coherence. Acetate, crafted through processes that combine handwork and innovation, becomes an authentic expression of style and durability. For the company, operating in this territory means belonging to a tradition that has made Italian eyewear a global benchmark. It means being an active part of a legacy that goes beyond producing eyewear — a legacy that generates cultural, economic, and identity-driven value. Made in Italy in Cadore is therefore synonymous with true quality, solid roots, and continuous evolution.
Q: The region’s tradition is built on handcrafting and slow production. How have you managed to bring in new technology without losing that artisanal soul?
A: A company that looks to the future can preserve its artisanal DNA while embracing progress as an ally. At Kador, we have carefully identified which manual processes represent the heart of our craft — the steps that still make a real difference in truly artisanal eyewear. These stages, still numerous today, remain unchanged because they define who we are. At the same time, we have introduced advanced technologies in areas where human skill can be enhanced and supported. Machines have never replaced the artisan; they amplify their potential, ensuring greater safety, quality, and precision. Certain details, shapes, and processes would be impossible without next-generation tools that open new paths for creativity while preserving the essence of handcrafting. The result is a solid balance: a company that remains deeply artisanal, yet uses technology as a means to improve rather than lose its identity. It is progress that protects quality and strengthens the value of Made in Italy.
Q: Let’s talk about the new Over the Hill collection. Where did the idea come from, and what does it represent for you?
A: Over the Hill was born from the desire to give tangible form to my professional and personal journey. It is a collection that distils more than forty years of experience in the eyewear industry — a journey that began from scratch and evolved through roles and collaborations that eventually led me to become Creative Director at Safilo and to design successfully for some of the most important international maisons. At the same time, Over the Hill is a tribute to Cadore, a region I belong to and one that played a crucial role in my development. Here, there is not only a production district unlike any other in the world, but also a cultural and professional environment that has profoundly shaped my vision of the product. The collection reflects this dual foundation: on one side, the experience gained over the years; on the other, the identity of the place where many of my most meaningful memories reside. The details featured in each model are not decorative elements but bearers of meaning — precise design choices that recall aspects of my story, the local artisanal tradition, and the continuous evolution of design. Over the Hill is therefore intended as a mature synthesis of my path: a conscious look at the past, expressed through a contemporary and refined product conceived to embody a professional legacy in constant renewal.
Q: There’s a reflective tone to Over the Hill: experience, memory, renewal. How do those themes show up in the frames themselves?
A: When I design a pair of glasses for Kàdor, my creativity is guided by a series of objective factors: market trends, the needs of different target audiences, the current colour palette, and the evolution of materials. The creative phase is always accompanied by in-depth research — including technical research — which allows the idea to be translated into a product consistent with the brand’s identity and with the demands of the industry. In this sense, my creative instinct is in constant dialogue with specific criteria and a well-defined strategic framework. For Over the Hill, the process is intentionally completely different. I chose to work without constraints, giving space to a design approach free from predetermined rules. The goal was to create a collection that fully reflected my vision, without filters or compromises. This allowed me to develop exclusive details designed specifically for this line, which cannot be replicated elsewhere — aesthetic and functional elements born from personal research, guided not by market logic but by an independent creative path. It is precisely this freedom that gives the collection its luxurious character. Each frame features unique details, meticulously conceived and crafted exclusively for Over the Hill. The result is a product that does not simply interpret a trend, but expresses a distinctive and unrepeatable identity, shaped solely by my creative instinct and by my experience in the industry.
Q: You’ll be showing the collection at OPTI Munich in January. What can opticians and buyers expect to see there?
A: We will certainly be presenting the collection at OPTI Munich, and we are confident about receiving positive feedback. The German eyewear market is very dynamic, and German opticians pay particular attention to quality and attention to detail. We hope they will appreciate the distinctive features and design vision behind Over the Hill. In addition to Over the Hill, we will also be showcasing other Kàdor collections, characterised by a bold and distinctive design, reinterpreted through various colour options. This allows the end customer to choose the model that best reflects their personality. For Kàdor, quality and design remain essential values and form the foundation of every collection, ensuring products that are unique and instantly recognisable.
Q: The market has changed a lot, with global brands on one side and small independent groups on the other. What keeps a brand like Kàdor relevant and competitive today?
A: We have always remained consistent with our DNA, which expresses itself through the quality of our materials, our design, and the artisanal care behind every step of production. We believe that this consistency pays off in the long term, as it builds trust and recognizability. At the same time, we have never stood still: we have continued to invest and to develop structured growth plans, essential elements for creating solid and lasting foundations within the company. As a brand, Kador has always been dynamic and forward-thinking, offering carefully designed collections aimed at satisfying a broad and diverse audience, both in age and in taste. Our strength lies in our ability to combine innovation and quality, offering products that — once worn and experienced — immediately reveal their difference. This combination of design, craftsmanship, and attention to detail is what keeps Kador relevant and competitive, even in an increasingly complex market.
Q: Looking ahead, where do you want to take Kador in the next few years? What’s next for you and for the brand?
A: Our goal is to continue investing strategically on several fronts: machinery, production spaces, materials, and personnel. We believe these investments are essential not only for enhancing the company and improving our processes, but also for supporting and promoting the region that hosts us — Cadore — which has always been an essential part of our identity. We are currently carrying out a structured investment plan designed to generate concrete results both in terms of brand-awareness growth and revenue development. The strategy involves, on one hand, strengthening our presence in European markets and, on the other, opening and expanding into the American market, which we consider particularly promising for high-end products and Italian design In parallel, our collections will evolve in line with this vision: we want to continue combining quality, innovation, and uniqueness, ensuring that each new line can meet the needs of an international audience while maintaining a strong artisanal identity. We hope that future collections will consolidate Kador’s reputation as a benchmark brand in the high-end eyewear sector. Finally, we consider it important to continue developing community-focused projects together with local institutions and schools in the region. Some of these initiatives have already been launched with positive results, and we intend to expand them further, strengthening the bond between the company and the community. In summary, our strategy aims to combine business development, product innovation, and territorial responsibility, ensuring sustainable and long-lasting growth over time.
