DE RIGO: playing the long game
- By Valeria Martinez
As luxury shoppers become more selective, De Rigo is betting on consistency over the latest craze. Across a premium portfolio spanning Chopard, Roberto Cavalli, Porsche Design and more, the priority is giving each brand room to be itself. 20/20 Europe speaks with chief marketing officer Barbara De Rigo what keeps consumers investing, balancing heritage with innovation and why chasing trends is rarely a recipe for staying power.
Q: Premium eyewear has held up well despite a tougher luxury market. Why do you think people are still willing to invest in a great pair of glasses?
Eyewear has evolved into a powerful tool for self-expression and personal identity. Consumers no longer view it as a purely functional accessory, but as an extension of their lifestyle and aesthetic sensibility. After years in which purchasing decisions were often driven by short-lived trends, people are increasingly seeking lasting value. We are seeing a clear return to an appreciation of craftsmanship, brand heritage and manufacturing excellence. These are the qualities that continue to encourage consumers to invest in products capable of combining design, innovation and an authentic emotional connection.
Q: You’ve spent your career surrounded by iconic brands over the years. Is there a common thread or magic ingredient that makes a premium eyewear brand succeed?
A: The defining factor is brand consistency. Today’s consumers are highly informed and can immediately recognise whether a product genuinely reflects a maison’s values or has simply been created to follow a temporary trend. What successful brands, despite their very different identities, have in common is a clear promise to consumers and a well-defined purpose in the market, whether in high jewellery, fashion or precision engineering. The key is to respect the aesthetic heritage of each brand, translating its DNA into collections that are both credible and instantly recognisable, while avoiding homogenisation.
Q: Within De Rigo’s global universe, what strategic role does the premium segment play and how has that role evolved over the years?
A: For De Rigo, the premium segment holds strategic importance because it is where product desirability is created, at the intersection of fashion, design, craftsmanship and technology. Over the years, this division has evolved from simply supplying high-end frames to building a more sophisticated consumer experience. Through a balanced portfolio ranging from luxury excellence to technical eyewear, we support our distribution network with targeted content, training programs and commercial tools. Our objective is to enhance brand presence at the point of sale, enabling opticians to differentiate their offering and build sustainable growth.
Q: How do you balance growing your own brands while giving major licensed partners such as Chopard and Porsche Design the attention they demand?
A: The secret lies in our ability to nurture each brand while preserving its unique identity and market positioning. We never seek to standardize the portfolio. Instead, we dedicate tailored strategies and collections to every brand, ensuring an authentic interpretation of its heritage and values. For our licensed partners, we maintain the highest standards in materials, technical development and market positioning. At the same time, De Rigo combines the agility and long-term vision of a family-owned company with the execution capabilities of an international group. This allows us to dedicate resources, training initiatives and market-specific activations to each brand, avoiding overlap and maximizing performance across the portfolio.
Q: When you look across Roberto Cavalli, Chopard, Porsche Design, Rodenstock and Philipp Plein, what does each bring to the portfolio that the others don’t?
A: Each brand represents a distinct expression of the premium eyewear landscape, addressing different consumer needs and aspirations. Chopard embodies the pinnacle of luxury and high jewellery, offering sophisticated expressions for both women and men. The collection combines refined elegance, precious craftsmanship and hand-set details, translating iconic signatures such as Ice Cube and Happy Diamonds into distinctive eyewear designs. Roberto Cavalli expresses sophisticated and sensual glamour, with a distinctive Italian creativity. Bold and iconic details, from animal-inspired motifs to the signature serpent and fang elements, create a powerful, seductive and unmistakably Cavalli aesthetic. Philipp Plein represents the most daring and provocative side of contemporary fashion, expressing a maximalist and unconventional aesthetic through strong volumes, signature studs, and distinctive hexagonal elements. Porsche Design defines the high-tech premium segment, bringing Porsche’s engineering excellence and iconic design philosophy to Eyewear. Combining precision engineering, sophisticated design and high-end materials such as titanium, carbon fibre and RXP, each frame is engineered for exceptional performance. Rodenstockcombines German engineering with pure aesthetics. Exceptional lightness, refined ergonomics, and innovative technical solutions come together in eyewear designed with precision and purpose. From advanced materials to the screwless hinge of the award-winning Nexus collection, every detail reflects the guiding principle “Form follows Lightness”.
Q: Where do the ideas for a new collection usually come from, and what’s the biggest challenge in translating a fashion brand’s identity into eyewear?
A: Every project begins with an in-depth study of the brand’s archives, visual language and aesthetic universe. We draw inspiration directly from the design codes found in fashion collections, jewellery creations or engineering concepts, combining these insights with ongoing research into new materials and construction techniques. The greatest challenge in eyewear is translating a fashion brand’s identity without compromising product functionality. Visual impact may attract consumers, but fit, comfort and durability are what ultimately determine the success of a frame. Our role is to balance creative expression with technical precision, creating eyewear that feels like a natural extension of the brand itself.
Q: As luxury consumers become more selective, has that changed how you build and market your premium collections? How do you prioritise investment?
A: Today’s consumers are highly versatile. The same individual may choose a lightweight, minimalist frame for everyday professional use and a bold statement sunglass for social occasions. For this reason, we do not chase individual trends. Instead, we develop balanced collections that combine understated elegance with stronger statement pieces. We prioritise investment across product development, including advanced alloys, precision manufacturing and artisanal finishing techniques; marketing, through storytelling, premium experiences and partnerships with talent and celebrities; and sales support for optical partners, including digital training, point-of-sale materials and dedicated events.
Q: Looking at the eyewear market right now, what’s the single biggest shift you think the industry needs to be paying attention to?
A: The most significant shift lies in changing consumer expectations. Today’s consumers are looking for a more holistic approach to innovation and a greater level of product authenticity. The era of isolated, short-lived trends is fading. Consumers increasingly expect solutions in which aesthetic excellence and technological performance are seamlessly integrated. True innovation in eyewear is the kind that improves everyday life almost invisibly, making frames lighter, more ergonomic, more durable and more comfortable, while allowing personal expression to remain at the forefront.
Q: Looking ahead, where do you see the biggest opportunities for De Rigo’s premium portfolio over the next few years?
A: The greatest opportunities stem from the growing importance of product quality and from eyewear’s role as a defining element of personal identity. Demand for products that combine exceptional craftsmanship, innovation and emotional engagement will continue to grow, and the breadth of our portfolio allows us to address every segment of this evolving market. Another important area of opportunity lies in the integration of digital technologies, both within products themselves and in support of our sales network and end consumers. In addition, our continued investment in people and expertise will enable us to further strengthen our role as a strategic partner for some of the world’s most prestigious brands.
